Jolene Eats in Copenhagen
Updated: Aug 3
If you read my Jolene goes to Copenhagen (Again) blog, then you already know about Jennifer and my adventures exploring castles and getting our hygge time in. This post will be detailing all of the wonderful things we ate on our trip. When I travel, I believe that food is one of the most important aspects of a trip – it teaches you so much about the culture, the people, their customs, and what their palate enjoys.
When I was preparing for my first trip to Copenhagen back in 2017, I read a lot about how Copenhagen’s food scene has taken strides to emphasize locally-sourced ingredients that provide a healthier bite, in addition to bringing a fuller flavor to the food. It is a welcome difference from the processed food so readily available in America.
Our first culinary adventure was a simple one: we dragged our jet-lagged bodies away from our cozy beds and into the city. Not having decided exactly what we wanted, we tried out Tivoli Food Hall, an establishment adjacent to the famed amusement park. The decor was playful and inviting, mirroring the aesthetics of the park next door.
When we walked in, we were greeted by many different options, but I could not resist starting off with smørrebrød, a Danish open-faced sandwich typically served on rye. We weren't starving, so we decided to split two.
As I am a creature of habit, I chose the liver pate with pickled beet, bacon and lingonberries (which we had last time), and Jennifer chose a salmon salad with smoked salmon and roe. Both were delicious, and the perfect bite before we headed back to our cozy Airbnb for more hygge time.
Our first morning waking up in the crisp, cold air called for a hot drink and a fresh bakery item. We were on our way to meet with some Christians and stopped by Andersen Bakery along the way.
Europe in general is full of wonderful bakeries - I never get tired of them! At this one, I went for a cardamom-spiced bun and a hot latte. It was the perfect, cozy bite for such a cold morning.
Later that day, we were caught in a bit of a rain storm and were desperate to find somewhere to warm up and eat something delicious. Luckily, thanks to Yelp, I found Restaurant Karla.
Its glowing neon sign was a welcome sight, and we were relieved to step out of the rain and thaw off inside. Service was wonderful - we were escorted to the lower level, where our coats were taken and we were seated. Staff were attentive without hovering, and our whole meal was well taken care of.
I chose a very generous serving of veal schnitzel with potatoes and peas. It was wonderfully hearty and tasty!
We spent the first half of Monday exploring a palace and definitely worked up an appetite by lunchtime. Since Frederiksborg Castle is about an hour outside of Copenhagen by train, I knew I had to find somewhere in the area to eat.
Located on the castle grounds is Leonora, an upscale bistro with traditional Danish offerings. We had arrived for a late lunch so we missed out on some of the hot dishes, but we still loved and enjoyed what we ordered.
It also didn't hurt to have views of the castle while we enjoyed our lunch!
Jennifer and I split an appetizer and a platter. We were given wonderful Danish rye with toppings like "Christmas" (citrus cinnamon) herring, seafood salad, and smoked salmon.
Soon after, we were off to our next adventure: Tivoli Gardens
I had such a wonderful time at Tivoli on my last trip to Copenhagen that it was a no-brainer to come back. Tivoli is full of restaurants and food stalls, so the meal possibilities are endless. Right after entering the park, we grabbed a hot drink and went on the hunt for some food.
Previously, we got to try a type of Danish hash, biksemad, but when we looked for the same stall, it was gone! We were sad, but we decided to grab some hot dogs from Hot Dog Hytten. Yes, you read correctly: hot dogs. In many Scandinavian and Dutch countries, you will find amazing hot dogs!
Because Tivoli had just reopened for their Halloween seasonal time, there was a special Halloween hot dog option, so you know I had to get that. The Halloween hot dog came with an organic sausage in a black bun, topped with coleslaw, pumpkin + cucumber relish, and pumpkin seeds. It had so much freshness and wonderful texture, with just a little bit of sweetness.
We continued through Tivoli with many rides and window shopping, before getting something sweet. We couldn't decide on just one option... so we got waffles and æbleskiver, which are Dutch style pancake balls.
We finished off the night with hot chocolate and more twinkly lights.
Tuesday was our last day in Copenhagen, and we had no intention of letting our day go to waste. Go big or go home, right?
Our day began bright and early, with plenty of sunshine and an exceptional breakfast. We soaked in the morning light one last time, and made our way to Ipsen & Co, a notable coffee shop in Frederiksberg.
Its interior was warm and inviting, trendy without being intimidating. We were met with great service as we approached the counter and were graciously given menus in English. I decided to order the unbelievably Instagram-worthy breakfast plate and a hot latte. The breakfast plate came with a croissant, cheese, jam, two different types of bread, butter, a soft boiled egg, and skyr with granola and compote. It was divine!
It was the perfect amount of delicious fuel to energize me for another day of exploring castles, and enjoying my last full day in one of my favorite cities.
After a long day, we were ready for our planned epic meal that night: A very indulgent, Michelin-starred dinner at Kokkeriet. I'd had an amazing experience having my first Michelin-starred dinner when I was in Copenhagen the first time, so I absolutely could not pass up trying out another restaurant with a star.
Unlike our modern, laid-back meal at Relae, our meal at Kokkeriet was more traditionally "fine dining," with its white table cloths and monochromatic color scheme. We decided to order the light menu, and our intention was to try the Tuesday Testing dishes, but there was a miscommunication with our server. Every Tuesday, Kokkeriet gives guests the opportunity to add up to 4 "testing" dishes to their meal for no charge - the only requirement is that the guests give feedback. Tuesday Testing helps Kokkeriet shape their menu!
Every dish was absolutely stunning - Danish ingredients were celebrated in the most wonderful, modern way. We began our meal with five "snacks," before heading into the actual courses of the meal.
The flavors and unexpected ingredient combinations were a delight to our tastebuds, and transformed a meal into a culinary experience. From morel mushroom cream pie to caviar to "Viking flatbread" to pine sorber, we thoroughly enjoyed every single course.
Our meal at Kokkeriet was the absolute perfect ending to our time in Copenhagen, and I would definitely go back!
Until next time,
Happy wandering, and happier eating!